I think it was around 2016 or even 2017 whenever Seiko abruptly started liberating a bittorrent of limited editions with special dials. Since then, the particular Japanese watchmaker has not really relented, continuing with its stream of using dials inside striking situations, all whilst playing this fast and loose with the word “limited. ” One associated with the major elements associated with Seiko’s call design is usually its use of the cultural, historical, and organic landscapes associated with Japan. From white knobs with structure borrowed from a mountain ridge to mosaic knobs recalling introducing stones in Tokyo, Seiko’s sources of inspiration with times stress credulity; is it possible—heaven forbid—that Seiko simply designs pretty dials after which finds blog post facto motivation? Perhaps more importantly, even in the event that’s the particular case, can it matter, as long as the outcomes are wonderful? Because they are almost universally gorgeous, including the latest additions associated with two Presage models in the line’s Sharp-Edged Collection that take their inspiration from Japoneses Kabuki cinema.
To be clear, these new models are not really entirely new, but rather limited edition colorways associated with existing Presage Sharp-Edged versions. The Sharp-Edged Series will be comprised of GMT, three-hand, plus calendar/power source models, the particular latter two of which usually were used, respectively, for the purpose of the SPB329 and SPB331 Kabuki models. The Sharp-Edged Series is usually defined by the use of a Western Asanoha (hemp leaf) switch pattern within traditional Japanese colors and sharp sides and sides in the particular hands, indicators, and case. To create the rich background and custom of Western Kabuki movie theater towards the collection, Seiko worked with renowned Kabuki professional Ebizō Ichikawa. For those who don’t know (I’m assuming that’s almost everyone), Ebizō is certainly part of a family of Kabuki actors that goes back to 1660, tracing the roots to Ichikawa Danjūrō I, probably the most famous and most influential Kabuki actors of all time. That loved ones legacy is usually continued by Ebizō Ichikawa, and it’s with that will preeminence with which this individual approached the particular project.
The dial will be the main attraction in these types of two brand new models. The particular gloss switch features a gradient that begins with a deep persimmon center (referred in order to by its Japanese name Kokiiro), which has been utilized by the particular Ichikawa family for decades. The gradient darkens on the advantage of the particular dial, and the shifting colour scheme is underpinned by the particular Sharp-Edged Series’ hemp leaf motif design. As the Asanoha pattern has been already part of the series, it also happens to happen to be used for decades in Kabuki costumes. The sharp hands and angular applied guns have been rendered in gold sound and both feature programs of Seiko’s exceptional Lumibrite lume. Since mentioned, 2 dial configuration settings are obtainable. The three-hand SPB331 is usually unobstructed save for the gold-tone framed a few o’clock date window. The SPB229 upon the some other hand, overs a much busier switch, with sunken day plus date subdials, and an indented retrograde power reserve sign at 9 o’clock, all of the within the same Kokiiro color of crimson. Somewhat oddly, the subdial hands are silver-tone, which I’d argue doesn’t very work.
The case associated with the brand new SPB329 and SPB331 function the same overall design—an angular, black-coated stainless steel case—with slightly different dimensions. The particular three-hand SPB331 measures 39. 3mm-wide, 11mm-thick, and 47mm lug-to-lug; the particular SPB329 is certainly larger to accommodate the movement, measuring 40. 2mm-wide, 13. 7mm-thick, and 47. 37mm lug-to-lug. For my money, the added call displays are not worth the extra 2mm thickness, but you’ll know your own wrist best. Most Sharp-Edged models are usually straight stainless-steel, but the black coating makes sense right here; it enables the call to pop and doesn’t build a two-tone metal situation with all the hands (subdials upon the SPB329 notwithstanding). The particular cases have a combination associated with finishes, along with brushing on the lugs and caseband contrasted with a polished bezel, caseband, and chamfer. The particular case’s type is traditional Seiko, along with sharp sides, well-defined aspects, and the gentle shape towards the whole profile. These people both feature flat sapphire crystals plus 100m associated with water level of resistance. The timepieces are fitted to leather straps along with folding clasps, which feature a black top and a dial-matched Kokiiro backing with matching stitching.
Noticed through their sapphire casebacks, the new models both use Seikos 6R series motions. The three-hand SPB331 uses certainly one of Seiko’s newest actions, the 6R35, that was released in 2019 being an up-date towards the 6R15. The 6R35 features 24 jewels, a beat price of twenty one, 600 vph, and a good extended power reserve of 70 hours—one more treasure and 20 more hours than the predecessor. The particular more complex SPB329 comes with the 6R21, which is without a doubt a little bit larger, but additionally a bit older, launched last year (the third launch from the 6R family). It has 29 jewels for its added complications, with the faster defeat rate associated with 28, 800 vph and subsequently a lower energy reserve associated with 45 hours. I do not think either movement will be everything to scoff at, although obviously, the particular three-day versus. two-day energy reserve is something to consider should you be torn between the two.
Seiko has a long background of special and limited editions that have been increasing within frequency in the last several years. Many of them are inner special editions—they don’t include collaboration with the outside business, just a Seiko designer searching the window plus seeing something pretty. When the brand name does match an exterior person or even group, the particular result frequently pushes the particular envelope a little further compared to the it would perform on its own. That’s part associated with the great watch collaborations, and that is what has happened within Seiko’s relationship with the particular acclaimed Kabuki actor Ebizō Ichikawa. The particular Seiko Presage Sharp Edged SPB331 can be priced at $1, 050 UNITED STATES DOLLAR plus the SPB 329 costs $1, 200 UNITED STATES DOLLAR , with each models restricted to 2k pieces. For more info, please check out the brand’s website .